by Jack
You believe in recycling right? Well, here’s my contribution for a greener planet…
A few years ago I did an article on reloading steel cases. Let me now add, since that time I have had no bad experiences.
The most I’ve reloaded a single case is three times, but I have a feeling they could go many more. I noticed that steel doesn’t stretch like the brass cases, so no need to trim them. However, because they are steel it is probably a good idea to use a primer pocket tool deburring tool to place a slight counter sink or bevel on the neck so it doesn’t scratch the bullet as it slides in. Everything else is pretty standard reloading, just like you would do with a brass case.
I’ve only worked with .223 cases using boxer primers, but these work fine. My load is always a mid-range and I use Winchester small rifle primer. The best powder (for me) is Winchester’s 748 for small and medium rifles. My powder load is 23.5g using a 55g FMJBT. This flies right at 3065 FPS. Hint, take extra care to seat the bullet just short of the rifling, be very careful that it doesn’t touch! This will give you consistent accuracy. If you’re loading for competition, then match the case brands, then weigh the loaded rounds so each one is within fraction of a g of each other. In this event I would use a good quality bullet, my choice is a 62g VMax and I keep the powder charge at 23.5g with 748. That’s plenty hot.
I practiced with an inexpensive 4X mil dot scope on a CAR with a 1 in 9 twist barrel and @ 25 YDS I can get a consistent 1.75″ dia. group off a bench. I know, that isn’t too incredible, but consider this is a round that costs about .16 cents, not a half dollar or more like good match rounds. And this is very repeatable performance, even though we’re not talking top dollar equipment here.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE: This is what I use, I’m not instructing you to do it this way or warrantying this method as safe.