Destinations – Ashland’s Railroad District

In my first post about Ashland I wrote about how this small town lures me in ways beyond its well-known Shakespeare Festival. Now I’d like to acquaint you with an area that unfortunately many visitors miss: the Railroad District.

In December 1887 the golden spike completing the railroad between California and Oregon was driven just south of Ashland. Portland and San Francisco were now connected directly by rail, allowing for faster and cheaper movement of goods and people.

   MY FRIEND LARRY NEXT TO A “WIG-WAG” SIGNAL

Owing to its location at the beginning (for southbound trains) or end (northbound trains) of the challenging ascent of the Siskiyous, Ashland became a division point for the Southern Pacific. Train crews changed here, and helper engines were either removed or added, depending upon a train’s direction.

Due to the railroad and related businesses (such as warehousing and shipping), commerce grew substantially in the grid of streets west of the tracks and train station. Hotels, boarding houses, restaurants and other businesses, licit and otherwise, served the needs of railroaders, travelers and residents. Fast forward to the present day and the moniker of “Railroad District” seems poignant; the railroad that set the pace at one time is now practically nonexistent. More on that later.

   ASHLAND’S RAILROAD DISTRICT
The present day Railroad District encompasses an area (outlined on map) that is bound by Oak Street, Lithia Way, East Main Street, 8th Street and A Street.

(Click here for a walking guide and map created by the Ashland Railroad District Association.)

The Railroad District of today no longer revolves around any one single activity – like the railroad – as it did in the past.

A Street – which parallels the tracks – is the spine of the Railroad District, and in places you may discern a faint echo of what existed at one time. Old warehouses (mostly recycled for current uses), an Ace Hardware, and feed store can be found on the western end of the street.

More recent additions to A Street include offices and numerous art galleries clustered around the intersections with Fourth and Fifth Streets. The galleries are probably what draw most of the out-of-town visitors that do come to the Railroad District.

OLD TRAIN STATION    

At A and Fifth Street you can see a remnant of the original train station, which in the 1990s was moved a short distance from its original location because it was no longer needed by the railroad. Several businesses are now housed within.

Two noteworthy enterprises you’ll find in a former lumber warehouse at 258 A Street.

At street level is Lela’s Cafe. Delicious! We came here last July with Keith’s brother and sister-in-law and had a marvelous dinner. It’s French bistro meets Italy meets Oregon. The place has been for sale for a couple of years but let’s hope that if and when it sells the new owners will maintain the current standard.

Upstairs you’ll find the Ashland Historic Railroad Museum . The story of the museum is interesting in and of itself. Its founder (and owner of the entire building) is Victoria Law. She’s a former systems analyst for Boeing who came to Ashland to pursue a history degree at Southern Oregon University. Fond of trains since her childhood in Ohio, she spearheaded the creation of the museum, leads the non-profit organization that runs it, and provides free rent. Women are far less likely than men to get enthused about trains, and Victoria is a stellar exception to the rule.

Here’s an article from the Daily Tidings, the local newspaper, about Victoria, the museum, and Ashland’s railroad history. (In this otherwise fact-rich and worthwhile read, you’ll have to overlook one amusing but glaring typo: the golden spike completing the railroad was driven in 1887, not 1787!)

One of the most surprising things I learned when I visited the museum recently is that the last train robbery in the United States took place just south of Ashland in the Siskiyous in 1923. It was a horrible affair that resulted in the deaths of four railroad employees and fittingly netted zero for the perpetrators. The event is described in this piece from the Medford Mail-Tribune entitled: “Guitar maker uses Oregon wood with a bloody history”.

Here are a three other landmarks in my personal map of the Railroad District that I’ll point out. The rest you’ll have to discover on your own.

   The Peerless Hotel and Restaurant at 243 Fourth St.
I haven’t stayed in the hotel but some years ago a very engaging young woman gave Keith and me a tour of the beautifully restored property. Likewise I haven’t eaten in the restaurant but on good authority I understand that it is terrific. The restaurant has a splendid outdoor area used for events and dinner service in summer. Come up in winter and take advantage of a great deal offered during the quiet season.

Ashland Food Co-op at 237 N. First St.   

Ashland’s co-op reminds me of the Puget Consumers Cooperative I belonged to years ago in Seattle. Anyone can shop here; prices are good and selection is top-notch. Emphasis is on local and organic but don’t come expecting to O.D. on tie-dye. This is a well-run, full-service grocery store owned by close to 6000 members.

Rogue Valley Coffee Roasters at 917 E. Main St (corner of 8th)

I already wrote this up in the first post about Ashland. It’s a great place to pretend that you’re a native.

   ALLEY IN THE RAILROAD DISTRICT
The Railroad District is best explored on foot. You don’t need to have a plan – just go for a walk. You’ll see fine buildings to look at that run the gamut from Victorian to Craftsman to industrial (old and new) and anything else that may have been built between 1860 and today. Some of it’s pretty, some of it’s not.

Even at its most touristy in the center of town, Ashland is stlll pretty low-key but I can assure you that the pace is downright languid in the Railroad District. Explore it for yourself sometime.

   FREIGHT CARS PARKED IN ASHLAND
And what became of the railroad you may ask?

After the S.P. completed the Cascades Line between Oregon and California via Klamath Falls in 1926, the Siskiyou Line went into a gradual decline as most long-distance freight and passenger trains used the shorter and faster route. The last passenger train (between Ashland and Portland) was discontinued in August 1955. Freight was strong for many years but went into a decline in the 70s and 80s.

Shortly before the S.P. was acquired by the Union Pacific in 1996, the Siskiyou Line was leased to a short-line holding company and operated as the Central Oregon & Pacific (CORP). It’s too long and dreary a story to summarize here but let’s just say that railroad barely hangs on. It’s too soon to write its obituary, but it’s sad to see that the most important element in Ashland’s early years is now all but forgotten.