Travels with Pat

As our plane approached Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia, we could see the world’s largest sandstone monolith commanding the surrounding Outback desert.  Geologists estimate that 400 million years ago this massive formation was pushed and twisted to its present majestic state.

November, and it was 107 degrees, so we were extremely thankful for our air conditioned bungalow in the Ayers Rock Resort complex.

Debarkation at Sydney went smoothly and we were transferred to our hotel.  The main problem after any cruise is that even when I’m standing on land, I feel as though I’m still swaying back and forth on the ship.

While Kathy was hopping on and off a red double decker sightseeing bus and taking in views of the Darling Harbor, the Rocks (residential district) and Sydney Harbor’s “coat hanger” bridge (which she later climbed to the summit), I arranged for press tickets to see Alan Ayckbourn’s play, “Woman in Mind” in the world famous Opera House topped with gigantic while “Sails.”  It was a fitting culmination of our two week voyage of exp;oration to New Zealand and Australia.

A drive through the heart of town revealed a sophisticated Arts Center with underground theatres and a gigantic Sports Center.  I was very impressed with the efficient public transportation system and tree lined boulevards.

Since tonight was our last night on board the ship, the waiters paraded through the dining room with our Farewell Dinner followed by sparklers atop Baked Alaskas.  Then, they gathered together to sing a parting song.

Our last gifts – in addition to the gold foil wrapped chocolate mints on our pillows – were small plush koalas.

AT SEA:  A pod of dolphins followed in the wake of our ship as we sailed toward Sydney.  At dinner time, a whale obliged us by spouting twice.

“Posh Melbourne is a genteel city of Victorian buildings, verdant parks and a vibrant multicultural heart.” according to our guide as we took a panoramic drive through the “Garden Capital of Australia.”

Our bus headed down the Esplanade with sandy beaches bordered by palm trees before passing through the affluent residential district of Tooral Village.  When we stopped at the Royal Botanical Gardens, I was treated to a wonderful display of flora, rolling lawns and even black swans swimming on the lake.

     As in our last NZ port, there was a huge mountain of wood chips on the wharf.  Our guide said that Burnie was changing its image from industrial port to tourist destination.  Apparently 10 years ago, the port water was orange with effluence; however, environmental concerns have produced beautiful blue water and sandy beaches which we viewed from a lookout over the harbor.

At the Creative Paper Factory we learned about the fascinating process of making paper from raw materials: bark, hemp, blue jeans and “roo poo” – to the finished sheets.  There were even some papier mache sculptures at Australia’s largest hand made paper studio.

Burnie Pioneer Museum in the heritage area featured a typical 1900’s street scene with blacksmith, livery stables, saddler,iron monger and even a boarding house advertisement of “clean accommodations.”  Several ladies dressed in period outfits were spinning wool while another bonnet capped lady was making intricate bobbin lace.

Tonight’s dinner was the “Chef’s Extravaganza” where the waiters leapt and pirouetted around, swooshing the napkins onto our laps.  Paper chef’s hats were provided tor us to wear to this suptuous meal.

As our ship sailed toward Melbourne I successfully showered while the ship rolled back and forth – a real feat of balance.

We only experienced force 4 winds; however, it was still”an ocean in motion.”  There were all sorts of amenities on board ib addition to reading, relaxing, eating and movies: a Casino for gamblers, full scale Spa, lectures, art auctions, jewelry presentations and more.

The whole personnel on this Holland America line was very solicitous, especially Gus, one of the Lido stewards, who always appeared to carry my tray for me from the buffet line at breakfast and lunch.

The second day Kathy became the ladies ping pong champ and walked 4 miles “On Deck for the Cure” against breast cancer.

The Captain wasn’t kidding when he announced last night that we would be experiencing gale winds of 65 knots because this A.M. our ship was definitely “rocking and rolling” with 30 to 40 foot swells and winds strong enough to lift a lounge chair over the railing and into the waves!

As a result of the turbulence our visit to Doubtful Sound (the deepest fjord in Fjorland National Park) was cancelled because the ship listed as the Captain tried to go against the current.  I was in the dining room on the 11th deck and all the plates slid off the ends of tables and clattered to the floor – even in the kitchen area.

The good news was that later in the day we were able to cruise into Milford Sound in the northern part of the park.  This glacially carved fjord had sheer rocky walls covered with rich green rain forest which rose straight up from the sea with magnificent hidden waterfalls cascading from cataracts all along its length with snow capped mountains in the background.

Another sunshiny day for our bus tour of this city settled by the Scotch.  Initially called New Edinburgh, the city fathers re-christened it Dunedin, the old Celtic name for their beloved Scottish city.  Growth was assured when gold was discovered in 1861.

Splendid stone buildings in the Victorian and Edwardian tradition were built – among them:  ornate stonework at Otago University and the Railway Station emblazoned with heraldic lions; a Victorian police station; and the creme de la creme, the Edwardian Olveston Mansion which offered us a glimpse of the life of a prosperous merchant at the turn of the century.  This opulent house with 35 rooms was filled with antique furniture, silverware and an enormous collection of eclectic treasures gleaned from travels abroad.

Dunedin also boasts that they have the “World’s Steepest Street” (Baldwin St.) which we saw on our way back to Port Chalmers on Otago Bay.

Kathy returned from her hike in the village with some ginger cookies and non-alcoholic ginger beer.

Since our ship was docked at Lyttleton, our driver “chippered” (transported) us through the tunnel into Christchurch, “The most English city outside of England.”  Because it was springtime there, the rhododendrons. azaleas, Icelandic Poppies and other flowers were in bloom – thus the nickname, “Garden City.”

At Mona Vale, an historic Victorian residence situated on the Avon River, we walked past more fragrant buds and duck-filled ponds on our way to the Homestead for a Devonshire Tea which meant more scones and clotted cream.  Back in the bus we climbed the Port hills for an overview of Christchurch at the “Sign of the Takahe”; on our descent we were surrounded by hillsides blanketed with yellow broom; andd passed through the central city filled with neo-Gothic buildings.

Futch caps were waiting for us in the dining room to wear while eating our typical Dutch dinner consisting of Westland sla (green salad), Blefstuk van de Haas mit Peper Saus(fillet mignon) and pommes noisette (potatoes) followed by Appel taart (dessert).

“The Sights of Wellington Panoramic Drive” pointed out that Wellington is the Capital of New Zealand; nicknamed the Windy City”; situated on several faults; has hills like San Francisco and sports English style chimney pots.

There were many hairpin bends as our bus climbed one of the hills to see the Botanical Gardens.  Our next stop was the Mt. Victoria lookout which featured a large triangular memorial covered in Southern Lights dedicated to Admiral Byrd, the first person to fly over the South Pole.

Two downtown buildings caught my eye:  the “Beehive” (part of Parliament complex) named for its tiered shape; and the old St. Paul’s Gothic Episcopal Church (1866).